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Apr. 8, 2008 - Wide Angle Lenses 2

I recently aquired a Canon 10-22mm wide angle lens and a new Canon 40D digital camera. The lens is equivalent to a 16-35mm lens on 35mm cameras. This lens is really, really wide. Here is a link to reasons why one should have a wide angle lens (wider than 28mm) for real estate photography.

Here are examples from this lens:

At 35mm:

At 28mm:

At 24mm:

At 20mm:

At 16mm:

A composite of the above:

Now, I'm not saying that 16mm is the answer, no. In fact, at 16mm, the angle is too wide which is giving an unnatural perspective. I would only use 16mm when I really have to, in order to capture a really tight space, such as this bathroom:

 

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Dec. 3, 2007 - ibm vs dell

If you are looking for brands, IBM used to be one of the best built laptops and had one of the best service plans. It is now under the Lenovo brand and I do not know anyone that has bought one yet. I used to have an IBM. Now I have a Dell. The reason I have a Dell now is simple: People are always asking me which is better. I kept on telling everybody IBM Thinkpad is better than Dell Inspiron. So, I bought a Dell Inspiron so that I could verify why I thought IBM was better. My conclusion: IBM Thinkpad is better. There are several reasons why I think IBM is better.
Note that this comparison is somewhat unfair, as the Dell Inspiron is the "consumer" class machine, while that Dell Latitude is the "business" class machine. The IBM Thinkpad T-series and Z-series are the "business" class machines, while the R-series and A-series are the low-end business class machines. The Lenovo 3000-series is the "consumer" class machine. But, I'm comparing an IBM T-series with the Small Business version of the Dell Inspiron 6400
1: Sturdy case- The T-series is made from some sort of Titanium alloy. It can withstand a lot of abuse. I personally dropped my IBM T30 on the concrete sidewalk! Not just once, but twice. Sure I cracked 2 corners, but it still worked just fine. My wife is still using that machine today (5 years later).
2: Sturdy case part 2- The Dell just seems like a cheaper case. It creaks if you lean on certain areas. It feels like cheap plastic. I've got several scratches in my Dell from putting it into the carrying case. The ibm never had this problem.
3: Best in class warranty plan- Opt for the on-site next day support plan. They come to your house or office and pick up the computer and usually bring it back the next day.
4: "Air Bags" for the Hard Drive- There is a gyroscope built into the computer. When it senses that the computer is being dropped, it parks the hard drive heads to prevent damage to the data.
5: Easily repairable- You can download the entire service manual for the thinkpads and service it yourself after the warranty runs out. (Dell has this as well, but HP charges $$ for it).
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Oct. 17, 2007 - Laptop Buying Guide

Things to consider when buying a Laptop

There are many brands of laptops out there and many models to choose from. How can one decide what should be important? Here are a few things to watch for when buying a laptop.

1. Warranty / Service Plan - The portable nature of laptops means they will fail. You need a warranty. I need a warranty. I've used my warranty on my 6 month old laptop to have the motherboard replaced. But you don't just need any warranty plan, a good plan can save the day, or week in most cases. Most store protection plans will require that you bring the laptop to the store and they will send it out to some service center for repair. Or some service plans will send you a box and you mail it off to some other state across the country. You will be out of service for 5-10 days. That is not acceptable for most people that I know. SO I recommend an "At Home" or "At Office" warranty plan. That's the kind of warranty I have. In my case, the technicial brought the parts to my house, and replaced it in about an hour. Dell provides this type of service plan as an option. So does IBM.

2. Memory - Windows XP is happy with 512MB, but 1GB is better. Vista will crawl on anything less than 1GB. 2GB is better. Memory is cheap anyway.

3. Graphic Subsystem - (See my blog article "Performance Computing" for more details) For best performance, you should buy a laptop (or any computer for that matter) that has a separate graphics card and separate graphics memory, NOT SHARED MEMORY. This one thing will increase the performance of your computer dramatically!!

4. Software - Software cost money to produce. If you need to use Microsoft Office, you should buy Microsoft Office. No, I'm not happy increasing Bill's net worth from 52,000,000,000 to 53,000,000,000 but I believe that work done is due credit. I did buy Microsoft Office, and Adobe Creative Suite, and several other expensive applications.

5. Backup drive - Buy an inexpensive Western Digital or Maxtor external USB drive and run backups regularly. Hard drives DO fail. In 1 year alone, I dealt with 6 real estate agents that had failed hard drives. Of those 6, 2 backed up their data. 1 on a regular basis (daily), the other on a 6 month basis. The other 4 lost everything. I back up every day or two. (see my blog entry about backups).

The rest is more or less subjective. Processor speed is much less an issue these days. Even a 1.8Ghz is plenty for most of todays applications. I run a 1.8ghz dual core with 2GB of RAM running Vista and it's very fast. But I run AutoCAD 2008, Photoshop CS2, Adobe Premier Elements, and a few other heavy duty applications such as Outlook. I don't have any problems with any of these apps because of the choices made above.

Hard Drive size is also subjective. I have an 80GB drive and it's just ok for what I do. But I have over 6,000 photos that take up over 12GB of the drive. The rest of my data is over 25,000 files, and takes up another 12GB. Hard Drive spindle speed is important if you are looking for a high performance computer. A hard drive that is spinning at 7200rpm will access data faster than a 5400rpm drive, which is in turn, faster than a 4200rpm drive. But faster hard drives generate somewhat more heat. It's a tradeoff.

Screen size is dependent on what you want. I went with a 15.4" widescreen with a resolution of 1680x1050.

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Jul. 10, 2007 - Wide Angle Lenses

How wide of an angle lens do I need?


A wide angle lens is very important when taking photos indoors, as we have to do in this business. So what's all the talk about 35mm equivalent? And why should I care? First, most manufacturers will specify the lens in a 35mm equivalent form as well as the actual mm of the lens. An example would be: 5.4mm-16.2mm (28-84mm 35mm equivalent) or 18mm-55mm (28-80mm 35mm equivalent). Using the 35mm equivalent measurements gives us something to compare with from camera to camera. On digital cameras, since the sensor size varies from camera to camera, the mm measurements differ from camera to camera. So to make it easier to compare, they give us measurements in 35mm equivalents, or what it would look like in a standard 35mm film camera. So in the example above, the 18mm-55mm Canon Kit lens on the Digital Rebel is as if I was shooting a 28mm-80mm lens on a 35mm camera.
Now, how wide is wide enough? I will recommend people get 24mm on the wide side. How you get to 24mm is up to you. If you buy a camera that has a 24mm lens, great. If you buy a camera that has a 35mm lens, and add a 0.7x adapter, you'll get some distortion, but it'll still get you to 24mm.
Right now, many manufacturers seem to have been moving away from the 24mm compact digital cameras. I'm not sure why, because almost every real estate agent would want one, as well as many people that take landscape/travel photos. There are only a couple out there, and if you take away the Kodak ones, that leaves next to none. If you know of any, let me know and I'll update my list.
So can I still get a compact digital camera and use it for indoor shots? Yes. Go with the 28mm route, and get a 0.85x adapter.
Or, for the next step up, consider the Canon or Nikon DSLR cameras. Pick a lens such as the Sigma 10-20 (16-32mm in 35mm equiv) and get the Canon Digital Rebel XT or XTI, or Nikon D40 or D50. These are the entry level digital SLR cameras and will be more than adequate for almost everybody.

Now, here's what photos look like at different mm ratings. All of the specs are given in 35mm equivalent. The room is a living room that is 21 feet by 11 feet. I was standing in the farthest corner shooting across the room. The camera was mounted on a tripod, and set to a manual exposure of 1/10 of a second at iso-100. Since I forgot to match the aperture across the photos, I manually adjusted them all to f/3.5, the same as the initial 2 photos.


20mm:

This is the living room of a particular house shown taken with a 20mm effective lens (18mm *1.6 crop factor * 0.7x adapter) Note that you can see the lamp on the left side, as well as wall space in front of the lamp… all the way to a piece of artwork on the right side. The corners are dark due to the combination of the 18mm with the wide angle adapter of 0.7x. This wouldn't be the case if I had a "real" wide-angle lens (which I do not have yet). Also note that there is some barrel distortion that is noted as curvature in the passageway to the hallway.



24mm:

Now take a look at 24mm. Note that the lamp is just starting to get cut off, and the framed art is ½ missing. (This was also taken with the 18mm * 1.6x * 0.7x but taken zoomed in just a tad.) Still get a good sense that the room is longer than it is wide.


28mm:


Here is where we start to lose more of the room. The lamp is almost completely gone, and the framed art is not there. We still get an ok idea of the room, but not of the original size of the room.


34mm:


This photo, taken at 34mm, has no sense of the room size anymore. It could be a 11x11 or it could be 21x11. No one would ever know. This is not a good photo to use because it just doesn't depict the room well. Compare it to the first photo which shows so much more of the room, or even the 24mm photo. Do your sellers a favor and get a wider lens.

There are only 3 point and shoot cameras that have 24mm wide angle lenses, the Kodak P880, and the Kodak V570, and Kodak V705, of which I don't like any of these 3 cameras. The quality is poor compared to every other camera I've seen or used.

Bottom line is this: you may want to consider an inexpensive Digital SLR camera such as the Canon Digital Rebel XT or the Nikon D40. They both are about $500, and you can add a 10-20 type lens such as the Sigma 10-20 for about $500. Total investment would be about $1000. If you decide to buy online, be sure to purchase from reputable vendors such as http://www.bhphoto.com , http://www.jr.com , http://www.adorama.com , http://www.amazon.com , or you could check other vendor ratings at http://www.resellerratings.com before you purchase.

Cameras with 28mm or wider:
Canon SD870is, Powershot S80, Powershot Pro1
Fuji Finepix F480 Zoom, E500 Zoom, ix E510 Zoom
Fuji Finepix S9000Z, S6000 fd, S8000 fd, S9100, IS-1
Minolta DiMage 7, 7i, 7Hi, A1, A2, A200
Leica Digilux 2, D-Lux 2, D-Lux 3, C-Lux 1
Nikon Coolpix P50, Coolpix 5400
Olympus FE-200, FE-290, C-5060 Zoom, C-8080 Wide Zoom, C7070 Wide Zoom, SP-550 UZ, SP-560 UZ
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LC1, FX07, FX50, FX01, FX30, FX33, FX55, FX100, LX1, LX2,TZ2, TZ3, FZ18
Ricoh Caplio 500G, RX, R1V, R2, R3, R30, R4, R5, R6, R7, R40, GX8, GR Digital, GR Digital II
Samsung Digimax A55W, L74 Wide, Pro815
Sony DSC-F828

Cameras with 24mm or wider:
Kodak P880, V570, V705 (23mm)
Nikon Coolpix 8400 (24mm- not availble anymore)
Ricoh Caplio GX100 (24mm)
Sony DSC-R1 (24mm) (if you're going to spend $1100 on this camera, why not get a Canon XTi and 10-20 lens for $1000?)

Out of 820 digital cameras, only 6 have 24mm wide angle lenses!

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Jul. 3, 2006 - Backup your computer!

Backup Your Computer!!!
 
Backups are a critical part of today’s society. Yet so few people backup on a regular basis. Ask yourself this: “If my computer crashed today, what would I miss?” If you have financial data (such as quicken) or digital photos, or e-mail addresses that are not easily replaced, you should be backing up your computer on a regular basis, such as weekly. Some of the reasons you should backup your data include:
1. Hard drives do crash, especially on laptops.
2. Your digital pictures are not replaceable if your Hard Drive crashes.
3. Other data such as Address books and e-mail are not easily replaced.
4. Even just bringing your computer in for technical support, there is a chance that they may wipe out your hard drive.
5. If your computer crashes and won’t boot up, you may need to reformat your drive to bring it back to factory settings. This process may delete all your data.
6. Lightening strikes can take out computers. Even surge protection may not be good enough.
 
There are several methods to backup your critical data on your computer. All of them have their plusses and minuses. But the most important key is to actually do it.  Here’s a list of a few ways to backup:
1. Copy data from one computer to another computer.
This method is the method that I personally use for two reasons. First, it’s very quick copying data over the network. Secondly, I can have access to a much larger storage medium than CD’s or DVD’s. I backup my laptop to a desktop at home that has 400GB of hard drive space. The downside is that I don’t have redundancy if there were a fire, or if the backup drive crashes.
 
2. Burn CDs or DVDs of your data. This is by far the cheapest method, especially if you use CD-RW or DVD-RW of some format. You can make multiple copies and keep several sets at work, and at home. But, if your data is larger than what fits on one disk, you’ll need to spend time swapping disks when backing up.
 
3. Use an external USB or Firewire backup drive. These external drives run under $100 nowadays, and have plenty of space for most people. They usually come with backup software as well and can be as easy as pressing 1 button to do backups. This is probably the best solution for most people.
 
4. Use an Online storage service. With this method, you can copy your data to some computer backup service over the internet. They house the storage and keep controls over their backup systems. Good for redundancy, but there are downsides. One, they charge a monthly fee. That can get expensive quick, especially if you consider that you can buy an external 100GB drive (#3) for under $100. Secondly, someone else has access to your data. Not that anything would happen, but it could.
 
5. Have multiple hard drives in one computer. This method requires mounting a second internal drive inside your existing desktop computer. (it won’t work on laptops as there is no space for a second drive) Then just copy one hard drive to the other hard drive at extremely high speeds. The main drawback is if that computer fails, both drives could be lost. It would be good for fending off certain types of failures such as 1 hard drive crash, or Windows XP failing to load, but if lightening strikes and blows through the power supply, you could lose both drives. But, it’s still better than no backup at all.
 
Factors to consider when putting together a backup plan:
1. You should have at least 2 sets of backups. With 2 sets, if your computer fails while you are running a backup, then hopefully the other backup set is usuable.
2. You should have at least 1 backup set off-site. This could mean rotating a set of backup disks to the office, or a friends house.
3. You should consider how often you should backup your data. If you can lose a week of changes, then a weekly backup would work. If every day is very important, then daily backups is key.
 
 
My take on this would be:
 
I tend to lean toward the USB backup devices such as Maxtor OneTouch. These can also have an automatic scheduled backup, or configured so that you just press the button on the device. Since they run only about $100 for a 100gb drive, they're inexpensive. And you can backup multiple computers, or carry it from location to location.
 
I also tend to recommend that people do a backup by copying files, rather than creating a backup image. That way, you can read the files from ANY computer without installing the software. Sure it takes a bit more space, but since space is sooo cheap nowadays...
 
 
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Jul. 3, 2006 - Performance Computing

Getting more performance out of your computer:
 
Most CPU speeds are more than ample to keep up with the software apps. It's other bottlenecks in systems that slow things down. Lack of available memory is the biggest culprit, along with hard drive transfer rate, and shared video memory. Knowing where your bottlenecks are allows you to manage the problem, or at least understand why things may be slow.
 
Nowadays, one should have at least 512MB of ram for Windows XP. I would go higher, either 768MB or 1GB. RAM is very inexpensive. I run 1.2GB of ram on my laptop.
 
7200RPM drives have faster transfer rates than 5400RPM or 4200RPM drives. That’s because the drive is spinning faster, and therefore reading data faster. Simple choice.
 
Separate video memory has been a huge factor in computing speed, but is lesser so now (if your machine is a core duo). I always use a freeway analogy:
 
Let's say you have a 4-lane freeway and you are moving data between the RAM and the CPU. That'll be just fine. There may be a bit of congestion now and then, but for the most part it's fine. But now, let's add the traffic between the graphics card and the CPU on the same 4-lane freeway. Now, any time you are doing graphics (any change to the display such as switching windows, or even typing), that data has to compete on the same freeway.
 
So, if you get a machine that has it's own dedicated video memory, it's like adding a separate 4-lane freeway just for the graphics card. You can see that this would have a huge impact on overall system performance with this seemingly small change. This is true on both desktops and laptops. Unfortunately not many laptops have dedicated video memory.
 
That being said, nowadays, with core duo processors, the bus speeds have increased enough so that there isn't as much of a performance hit. It's like the freeways are now 8-lane freeways. It still does help to have 2 separate 8 lane freeways, but not as much as before.
 
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Jun. 7, 2006 - No Flash??

I usually take all the real estate photos without flash. The reason is that I want to generate warmth in the photos without having hot-spots in the front, and dark in the back (of the rooms). I do own studio flash units, but they take time to set up correctly for each room. My normal mode of operation is to take photos of each room without flash. This is much quicker as I can take 30 - 40 shots (I always take 2-3 duplicates of each shot) of an average house in less than 30 minutes without flash. If I were to take the time to set up my studio strobes in each room, it'd probably take more like 90 minutes to shoot the same house.
 
You can see some of my results here:
 
ALL of the above photos were taking without flash using a tripod and a somewhat longish exposure.
 
By the way, if you are concerned about the flash rating, it is usually specified in GN or Guide Number, which is a rating of how powerful it is. For instance, my on-board camera flash (digital Rebel) has a Guide Number of 43 (iso 100, ft) and my external hot-shoe mounted flash has a GN of 142 (iso 100 in feet), while my studio strobes have a GN of between 80 and 220 (iso 100 in feet), depending on the reflector used.
 
The higher the number, the more powerful the flash. To calculate exposures, take the GN and divide it by the distance to the subject will yield the aperture (f-stop).
 
Example: GN 142 divided by 10 feet = aperture of f/14 (iso 100) for proper exposure.      
 
 
Steven Hong, REALTOR, e-PRO
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Jun. 7, 2006 - Photo Techniques for REALTORS

OK. I've taught some fellow agents some of my techniques and I'll post them here now. This is going to be just a summary of some techniques that'll help take better photos.
 
1. Equipment - Contrary to what people think, the more the megapixels isn't necessarily the better. One can do well enough with a 3.2MP camera, in fact, the first picture that I took (in the links below) was taken with an old Canon G1 3.2Mp camera. Today, I'd suggest a Canon G5 is enough, and it does have a hotshoe for those that want to use an external flash.
 
Wide angle lens is important. Most manufacturers will specify the lens in a 35mm equivalent form as well as the actual mm of the lens. An example would be: 5.4mm-16.2mm (28-84mm 35mm equivalent) or 18mm-55mm (28-80mm 35mm equivalent). Now, the camera I have is the Digital Rebel with the "kit" lens of 18-55. The wide angle at 28mm isn't wide enough to get the entire room, but I say, just take 2 pictures of the room and post both. I'm not a big fan of ultra-wide or fisheye lenses (such as what some of the virtual tour people use). I don't like the distortion, and I don't like the 360degree thingies, especially since they make a 10x10 room seem like 25x25.
 
Ideally, the camera with the largest piece of glass on the front probably costs more, and probably is the better lens. Also look for large aperatures (f2 is larger than f4 is larger than f8).
 
Tripod is the key. Even an inexpensive tripod ($30-50) will be worth the while.
 
2. Outdoors- Take the main, front picture of the house with the sun at your back on a partly cloudy / partly sunny day. This will help get the "blue sky" effect. I.E. If the house faces east, early morning. Use a 3/4 shot so that you can see most of the front of the house, and part of the side of the house. People can more easily judge how large a house is by adding the depth element.
 
3. Indoors- Turn off the flash, Turn on the lights, Close the blinds 3/4 way, Sunny Day. Use a tripod and shoot across the room with a longer exposure to compensate for the lack of flash. Bracket your exposures (i.e. take one photo, then take another overexposing by +1 stop, and take another at +2 stops). That way, you can choose what looks best when you get back to your computer without having to spend time touching up photos. A bright white window is better than a dark room.
 
The first photo example was taken at 1/15 second, aperature of f2.
 
4. Also, don't take pictures from above your head. Shoot straight across the room, otherwise the room will tend to look smaller. Shooting straight across also helps keep the vertical lines parallel and vertical.
 
5. Learn how to view the histogram on your digital camera. There should not be tons of stuff hanging off the left side of the histogram. Sometimes, a bunch of stuff will hang off the right side. That'll be the white light coming in the window. That's probably going to be ok. Otherwise the majority of stuff (the technical term) should be slightly to the right of middle. Read more about Histograms here:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml
 
6. Don't try to get everything in 1 shot. Take 2 or 3 photos and upload them all.
 
7. There is no number 7.
Good luck, and send cash.
 
Steven Hong
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May. 13, 2006 - Contact Management Software

I looked at several popular contact management packages back in September -November 2005. I've now reached a conclusion that's different than what I posted back then. For reference, the original post follows.

In the time since November, Mark Burrell challenged me to take a closer look at GoldMine. I chatted with him on several occasions via e-mail, and downloaded the trial version and attended his free webinar. What I was originally looking for was something that was easy to learn and use. But, as we all know, there are no shortcuts in life.

This proved to be the case with GoldMine.

But this package is powerful. It is easily the most comprehensive CRM package available (that I've seen). It allows for almost endless customization so that it can work with you, once you get to know it.  So, I purchased GoldMine in February and am just starting to learn it. It does take time to learn and is not as easy to use as other CRM packages. But I feel that it is the "Right" choice and can work for most people, especially if you are at least somewhat computer inclined. If you are afraid of computers, or afraid of technology, you may want to stay with something simpler. But be warned that you'll be giving up potential future business because of it.

Outlook (by itself) is not capable of doing the things needed to sustain and build a business. It's fine for e-mail and basic contact management, but beyond that, it can't compare. And as for the Outlook add-ins? I don't want to be tied to a platform that may change (outlook / office) whenever Micro$oft deems it necessary. I have concerns that some windows update may take place and suddenly features of the add-ins won't work until a fix is out. That's not for me.

Act has gone the way that Norton and Mcafee have gone. Bloated and buggy. Otherwise, Act may have been an ok choice. But why settle?  I'm not sure why I originally wrote off GoldMine. I really should have taken a closer look back in November because, like I mentioned before, it is easily the most capable.

Steven Hong, e-PRO Certified Internet/Technology Realtor

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 9:38 PM

To: RealTalk@InternetCrusade.com

Subject: RE: RealTalk: Contact Managers Comparison - REPOST (long)

I've recently been looking at various CRM software packages to find one that meet my needs best. I thought I'd share the results of my findings of each of the packages I looked at. I have no affiliation with any of these companies, and just downloaded trial software from each to give each a test spin. My findings are a result of my uses of the software, and you may see things differently. That's ok. That's why we each get choices.  The key points that I looked for and tried out are as follows:

Definable action plans with template e-mails
HTML e-mail capability
Network ability (multi-user)
Easy to use and learn
Retain data locally for backup purposes

 

Top Producer 7i:

In a nutshell: Expensive and slow, but has lots of features

Bottom Line: Top choice for online CRM

I subscribed to this program to give it a try. They only allow annual contracts, so I was out some $350 or so. This program is used on-line, as in on the internet. That is good benefit, as well as a detriment. The benefit is that you can use it wherever you can find a pc, such as a library, or in a coffee shop. The detriment of this is that you can't use it when you're on the road, such as in a client's house, or on the side of the street. They have a way around this now. One could purchase TP7i remote for an additional monthly fee and have access to the data on your laptop. One can also purchase for an additional monthly fee the ability to sync with a palm.

Now, more on this software. Being web-based has another disadvantage that is not readily apparent until you've used the software for a while. I don't know how many people use keyboard shortcuts, but I use them ALL the time in almost EVERY application. Weeelll, TP7i won't allow any keyboard shortcuts (at least I couldn't find a way). This means that even after filling in a form, one needs to use the mouse to click on OK (or continue or whatever) to get to the next screen. This is not an efficient way to navigate through the program. Another disadvantage is that I find the application is SLOW. Not like molasses, but not nearly as fast as other local applications such as Act or Agent Office. And, no it isn't my machine as my machine is very capable. Our local TP sales rep always blames my laptop though. My laptop is no slouch. I can run photoshop, golive, illustrator, and outlook at the same time (using dual monitors) with those apps consuming more than 500MB and they run just fine. But have nothing running, except TP7i in an internet explorer window, and it's slow as molasses.

The last drawback that I'll mention is this: Having your data under someone else's control may not be in your best interest. I think it is important to have and keep access to your data. I'm sure that for TP, if you don't pay your monthly bill, they'll shut off access to your data. Or, what if that company sold off TP, or went under? Would you have access to your data? Who knows. I will not chance my data to someone else. If I don't backup my data and my machine crashes, it's my problem, and it's my fault. But if they go under, or the server crashes, is it also my fault?

 

Act 2006:

In a nutshell: buggy. Crashed several times.

Bottom Line: Needs more stability

First of all, Act has been an industry staple for salespeople across various industries for many, many years. I remember seeing people use it in 1990, so it's been around for quite some time. This latest version, which I downloaded, looked pretty nice. It had the core features that I needed and looked like it would meet my criteria. Then I started to use it. Each time I tried to do something within act, no matter what it was, it crashed. Just try to send an e-mail, change a few options, paste some text, crash. Or try to create some documents, crash. Enter a new contact, crash.  That was enough for me to uninstall the program. Sorry Act, but you lose.

 

Goldmine 6.5:

In a nutshell: Complex, high learning curve

Bottom Line: Too high learning curve (for me)

This program seems geared toward managing a sales force. People say that it is Act on steroids, and it really is. But, unfortunately, it comes with a steep learning curve. I'm very software proficient coming from a software programming and testing background for over 10 years. I never did "get" this program. Maybe it was written before there were graphical / user interface standards, but it didn't flow well. I don't doubt that it is very capable, just that I couldn't make it work (that's saying a lot coming from me). So, I also uninstalled it. I'm sure one could purchase the training and get it running, and it could be very good, but I have other things I'd rather be doing than learning how to use a piece of software. Not to mention the time I'd have to spend training other people to use it (for those future assistants).

 

RealeSeller:

In a nutshell: low cost, integrates into outlook

Bottom Line: Missing key features

I really wanted Real eSeller to work. It looks nice, and it integrates into Outlook, something I already love and use. But there seems to be a few missing parts of this program. For one, if you set up an action plan to send an e-mail, I didn't find a way to put an e-mail template into the action plan. It seems as if you need to save all your e-mail templates separately and copy/paste them when it asks you to complete an activity. That means when an item shows up on your task list as an e-mail, you've got to go and find the e-mail you want to send, then paste it in and send it. This is cumbersome. Due to this limitation, I am not evaluating it further. They did reply to an e-mail and stated that something may be coming in a future release to address this issue.

 

Active Agent:

In a nutshell: Integrates within Outlook

Bottom Line: One of my top choices

There are a few advantages to AA, but also some disadvantages (no disrespect to Jack Bretcher, who is on this list). The main advantage is that it is integrated into Outlook, like RealeSeller. That means that you probably already know most of how it works, if you use Outlook. It's really easy to add new contacts, and to put them on an Action Plan, or Campaign as it's called in this product. Out of all of the apps, this would be one of my top choices.

 

Agent Office:

In a nutshell: easy to learn and use

Bottom Line: One of my top choices

I purchased this software for a super low price of $79 (I think it costs more now). Now that doesn't mean that the software is cheap, or not functional. In fact, it's just the opposite. It seems to have plenty of features and seems to always run well. There are a couple of items that Agent Office doesn't address. For instance, it still doesn't do HTML. The up-coming version due out in the short term is supposed to address this. Finally. The other couple of things I don't like are as follows: Keyboard shortcuts are inconsistent. Sometimes you can press the enter button as the equivalent of OK, but on other screens you can't. Sometimes one has to use the mouse to click on "yes" or "ok" rather than just pressing enter. You can only schedule Birthday and Anniversaries for 5 years. Once 5 years have past, it won't remind you again until you re-add the birthday and anniversary reminders. But you can set a reminder 4.5 years from now to remind you to do this, but you have to do so for every contact manually. Also, the word processor is nothing to write home about. MS-Word is infinitely better. But there are built-in Action Plans and new ones are easy to create. Also it's easy to assign the action plans to contacts, and groups of contacts are easy to search for. Out of all the apps, this is also one of my top choices.

 

Advantage Xi:

In a nutshell: Buggy

Bottom Line: Needs more stability

I downloaded this program last and tried it out for a few days. I tried to create some e-mails that could be scheduled to be automatically sent out. Unfortunately, it is difficult to create a template e-mail and save it. When you save it, that works, but you then can't exit the "new message" without specifying a contact, and sending out the e-mail. Then if you try to add the new message to the "action plan" which they call "task series spreadsheets" it crashes. Then I tried to e-mail a sample e-flyer to myself. That worked just fine. The only really cool thing I found was in the Task Series Spreadsheet module. There is a view, kind of like a Gantt chart where you can see where each contact is in the process of the action plan. It's more of a horizontal bar graph, but it works well. So with one glance, you can see the progress of each of the contacts. But that's not enough to make me purchase it. Also, keyboard shortcuts don't work appropriately, such as Alt-F4 should close the application, but on certain screens, it brings up the menu bar. What's going on?

 

Conclusion:

Out of all these, the only program that behaved as a normal windows program was Act. That is in terms of using standard dialog boxes, shortcut keys, etc. But, Act needs to grow up. There are way too many bugs for a released product.

Top Producer is a good choice for online CRM but the online disadvantages must be considered.

Advantage Xi, Agent Office, and Goldmine seem to be written by some "almost computer programmers" in the fact that they don't follow the "normal" or "standard" programming practices.

That leaves Real eSeller and Active Agent, both of which are Outlook "plugins." Real eSeller is missing a core feature (template e-mails) so I won't consider that one. 

My final word: The choice boils down to Active Agent, or Agent Office. I like Agent Office in the fact that it has been around a long time, and the program is very stable. But some of the features are really dated (word processor, no html yet (but coming soon), sort of clunky interface). And Active Agent is nicely integrated into Outlook. Choices, choices.

Steven Hong

 

A follow up to my summary of various CRM softwares:

After seeing what features are going to be added to Real eSeller, I may still consider that product, as it would meet my needs, and it seems like it may be more flexible than the other products. I've certainly gotten good responses from Michael Fordyce from RealeSeller. I did enjoy using the trial software, as there were features that were unique to RealeSeller.  I just need to do something today, and for today, it may just be using the copy of Agent Office that I already own, until the new RealeSeller comes out, as well as the new Agent Office, both due out before the end of the year.

By the way, I did hear from FNIS (Agent Office) and they did mention that the new version coming in the next couple of months will have the ability to add more than 5 years of reminders. I'm thinking 50 years ought to do it. I do plan on being in real estate more than 5 years, but probably not more than 50. And they are also adding HTML e-mails. So, if I purchase the latest version, I'll use it to send out campaign e-mails, and newsletters, but still use outlook for daily communication.

Steven Hong

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