Saasa, everyone!

In this update, I want to tell you about some of the things I've seen and done. First, I'll introduce you to the group I'm with -- Besides myself, there is Stephanie (a friend I had classes with and graduated with at UNM), her mother June, and Ben who is a native Kenyan and our guide and translator. YWIDC was started by Ann Githinji and Ben is her adopted son. In December, June and Stephanie will leave; Ann and another former classmate/current friend, Marica, will arrive. We are all living with Ann's wonderful family.

My first purpose was to bring school supplies to 5 schools in return for survey research they gave us on HIV/AIDS. At the schools, we took time to have a short discussion about the topic and created an open forum for the students (aged 11-14) to ask us questions. Some of the questions we received included: "What is the difference between HIV/AIDS?" "I heard a rumor that the condoms coming from America and Europe already had HIV in them. Is this true?" "Can dipping the penis in lemon water before sex prevent the spread of HIV?"... As you can see, there is great need in these schools for an education program.

Three of our schools are in Kibera, a slum of Nairobi. I spent two afternoons in Kibera during my first week here. Kibera is the largest slum in East Africa. It only takes up a quarter mile squared, but has over 30,000 residents. Right now, the government is trying to turn Kibera into project apartments, but many residents are unwilling to leave their homes in fear that the government will permanently displace them. The only property many of these people own are the clothes on their backs and their scrap-metal huts, but these are their livelihood.

When arriving in Kibera, all you see from the top of the hill is a village of scrap metal, running on either side of railroad tracks. As you enter, you see garbage piled high on the ground. All the foot paths are have raw sewage running alongside them. Small children try throwing stones on top of the passing train, nearly naked infants crawl in the garbage as they cry out for their mothers. Right outside a school, a dead dog lays in the shade, as the flies and rats start to seek out the stench.

On Monday, we went left Nairobi for Nakuru (about 2 1/2 hours outside of Nairobi). Along the way, we stopped at a viewpoint at the top of the mountain. From 8000 feet, you can see a great span of the Rift Valley and it is spectacular. In Nakuru, we were visiting a woman named Josephine and her orphanage and VCT (HIV Voluntary Counseling and Treatment Center) called Little Lambs/Hope for Life. There, she feeds and counsels over 100 children and teens who are either orphans or who's parent/s are infected with HIV/AIDS. We were intending to stay for 4 days, but we knew we couldn't. In addition to me getting a head cold, the living conditions were uncomfortable. Josephine's house (about a mile from the orphanage) was very dirty and cramped. Her live-in house/orphanage help had to sleep on the floor outside the kitchen so we could have beds. We knew we couldn't stay. We spent one day touring the facility, documenting Josephine's struggles and playing games with the children. We learned that on the premises, the following Friday, 8th grade boys would be circumcised in this small unsanitary room. (It is custom for males and formerly females to be circumcised around the age of 12, after the completion of their 8th grade examinations).

On the late-morning matatu ride home from Nakuru, we spotted several herds of zebra and antelopes along the roadside. There were also groups of baboons, one of which brought our vehicle to a stop as it crossed the road. This is the Africa I have always dreamed about.

Today, we visited an orphanage in a small town outside of Nairobi called Kikuyu. The orphanage called Amani Children's Center is a home to 27 children, all of whom are mentally and physically disabled. The woman who started the home 2 years ago, a former school-teacher named Elizabeth, is fulfilling what she calls a pact she made with God. In the course of 2 hours, she spoke, unloading her trauma on us as she told us stories about how 8 of the children had come to her home. As the stories unfolded, we all began to realize that most of the physical and mental disabilities that existed in this home were as a direct result of neglect, abuse, and rape.

All of the children are under the age of twelve, and at least 1/2 the girls had been raped. Perhaps one of the most terrible stories is about one of the very first children to come to the home. Her name is Faith and she is 9 years old, although looking at her, she looks 5. When she was found in her home (where one parent had HIV), she was on a mattress that had been soiled for years. She was still wearing diapers and was in a fetal position. She was 6 when she was found, and because of the fetal position, her muscles had grown week and she was stuck with her forehead nearly touching her knees. She had rotting bedsores running the entire length of her body. Now 9, she has barely enough strength to hold up her head. She still cannot walk and only speaks 3 words (mom, rice, and water).

I mentioned previously Ann's amazing family. Every day that we return from our expeditions to the city or to schools/orphanages, they greet us with smiles and warm welcomes. The house here is so clean and comfortable. There is always enough clean water and food available and we are always offered warm water to shower. Every day starts and ends with warm tea (made the British way with milk). At night, I look out my window and see lush greenery and city lights far off in the distance.

Every morning I awake to the sounds of birds chirping and the smell of breakfast being prepared. I mention all these things about the house to let you know how we live in contrast to what we see and hear every day. After only 2 weeks, I have absolutely no qualms about calling this place home or calling these people an extension of my family. I already feel eternally grateful to everyone here for providing a place of safety and rest after encountering the worst of humanity.

Its time to wrap this all up. I'm currently working on plans to visit a national park to see more animals. The end of November will bring a wedding for one of Ann's brothers. A greater part of December will be spent traveling to Rwanda and Burundi as well as spending the holidays with Ann's extended family. I will keep you all posted as my journeys continue. - Mark