St. Louis, Missouri
A Fun and Informative place to learn about our city and municipalities!
Site Feed
RSS Feed
|
Mar. 31, 2008
The following was written by Mark's dad, Dale, prior to Mark heading back to the states and home to his family and friends. Mark has arrived safely home now and once again does what he does best; helps others. There had been a fire in the building where he used to work and he's joined in the fix-up to get the place open again. WELCOME HOME, MARK!
February 27, 2008
Mark has been busy, and at 10:45 AM this morning (8:45 PM) Nairobi) was preparing to board a bus to Mombasa. One final holiday before preparing to head home! As I write this. Mark and Marica should be back in Albuquerque in 172 hours. They traveled to Uganda and Rwanda the week before last. They left Rwanda, the day before President Bush arrived. They said that there were a lot of American flags in Kigali. They witnessed the motorcade for Secretary of State Condelesa Rice. The genocide museum was slobbering. In one churchyard, 5000 people were hacked to death in 3 hours! Almost one million people killed. There are around 200 memorials in Rwanda. If you look on a map, you will see it is not a very large country. They did not have time to visit Burundi. We've not heard much more about it, but I'm sure we will when he returns.
He apologized when we spoke to him yesterday for not having gotten an update to everyone. As for the lack of an update, apparently Marica's computer was infected with a Raila Odinga Trojan/virus after visiting a cyber-cafe. Mark, being handy with computers was trying to clear her computer of the virus, and somehow infected his. A Google search for Raila Odina virus will find several pages about what it does. It is a very large annoyance. He will try to work on it during some free time in Mombasa. He ought to enjoy the Indian Ocean instead. :-)
There are members of the family that are going to Mombasa for a wedding. So they are getting the room at the rate for the wedding guests. So what is the first thing he wants to do when back in Albuquerque? Visit the Frontier Restaurant. I've been on the Northwest flight that from Minneapolis many times, and it gets in around 11:00. The Frontier closes at 1:00 AM. It used to be open all night, but they changed that just recently. In reality, he has sounded home-sick of late, or maybe his mom and I are just reading that into what he says. Or maybe it's just the food and his friends. So, the Frontier is the first stop. Then, I imagine, a lot of sleep.
I talked to Ann a couple of weeks ago. She said that Mark has a Kikuyu name, as do Stephanie, and Marica (and maybe June too). It is quite an honor to be accepted into a family as they have been and given a name. We have not been told what it is.
He says he is returning in 2009, and he wants his mother and I to come and visit him. We'll see.
As I write this, I await a text message. He said he was going to text me when they arrive in Mombasa. Lucky dog!
(My Thanks to Dale for keeping us all informed. I'm sure they all appreciated your prayers, too.)
Feb. 6, 2008
As you know by now, Mark is a cousin that I've never met, but feel close to as family has provided me with photos of him and tells me about his life experiences. I hope one day to meet up with him. I think he's going to be a man that helps the world. In his trip to Africa, you begin to see how he's making a difference as he enjoys meeting the people in Africa and learning about the country. He's one heck of a story teller, for sure! Stay tuned for more updates..
Hey everybody!
So when I wrote my last update, we were in dire straights, having had no idea what to do. Still stuck in Nairobi, we took another look at our calendars and tried to arrange some way to make a trip. We had been planning to make a trip to Mombasa and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. We ended up dropping the Mombasa part of the trip (which is ok, because we've managed a way to go at the end of the month), and planned to go to TZ ( read as: T-Zed).
We boarded a bus last Friday morning at 6:30 am, and began our journey. We were traveling via a reputable bus company called Dar Express. They are known for making quick trips and always being on time. As the bus pulled out of Nairobi, we realized that in order to keep to schedule, our driver would be driving like a madman for the duration of a trip. He swerved his large coach in and out of traffic at high speeds and narrowly avoided hitting farm animals as we passed through the Kenyan countryside. Within a blink of an eye, a few hours had passed and we were at the Kenyan border. Everyone unloaded and we all had our passports stamped and crossed into Tanzania.
At this point, I was beginning to feel a bit nervous. We still hadn't lined up a hotel in Dar es Salaam, and virtually everyone in Tanzania speaks about as much English as we speak Swahili. Putting any apprehensions aside, we dove head first into the adventure, as we bought our visas and re-boarded the bus. The next stop was Arusha, the home of African justice. This burgeoning city is where the UN designated to have its war-crime tribunal for the Rwandan genocide. Despite this fact, Arusha looked very dull. Supposedly its a cool place though, and I regret that we didn't arrange a day or two to stay there. As the trip rolled on into the afternoon, we picked up a stewardess who would serve us soda and water and would be on board for the remainder of the trip. We made a quick stop for lunch at a decent little buffet-style restaurant. In the late afternoon, the stewardess put on a crappy horror film called "Wrong Turn," which had even crappier subtitles, a source of some amusement. At sundown, we were just arriving in Dar es Salaam.
By this time, we had been contacted by Wambui to let us know that her friend would meet us at the bus station and take us to a hotel where he had booked us a room. After a short wait at the terminal, during which we were constantly being harassed for a taxi, he showed up and took us to the Grand Hotel. The name was a bit of a misnomer -- rather than being grand, it was actually quaint. It was a small hotel, with an on-site restaurant, from which we would order several meals on our trip. It was set in a normal neighborhood, reminiscent of our neighborhood back home, which was several minutes driving time from the 'city center'. It was also a bargain, at only 30,000 Tanzania shillings ($28) a night for a double. Tired from the trip and unwilling to adventure at night, we spent the evening in our hotel.
The following day, we ventured to city center, which is actually the coastal part of the city. We found a bookstore which had TZ travel guides for sale and invested in one. We used the included map to find our way around the area. We had been told that Dar es Salaam was very similar to Mombasa, which wasn't entirely true. Although it is a coastal town, its not really a beach resort town, as we came to learn. We did spend some time on the beach, however, collecting shells that had washed ashore.
In the evening, we walked around the neighborhood surrounding our hotel and bought lessos aka pagnes, which is brightly patterned cloth sold in pairs that feature Swahili phrases. The following day, on the way to the market, Marica and I encountered 3 men who snatched her camera bag off her shoulder and ran. We spent the rest of the morning in the police station filing a report. That afternoon, having decided Dar es Salaam was boring and didn't have too much to offer, we bought tickets to take the ferry to Zanzibar's Stone Town, a small town on the west side of the island.
The following morning, we checked out of our hotel and took a ferry to Zanzibar. After arriving, we went looking for a hotel. In an attempt to lose a broker that was trying to get us to follow him across town to a shady hotel, we ducked into a very nice old-fashioned hotel, which incidentally was recommended in our guidebook. We looked through the guidebook for things to do and decided a trip to the island's Jozani forest and a walk to Stone Town's market area were a must. We wish we had more time on the island, but we were scheduled to return to Dar the following afternoon. With more time, we could have taken a spice tour, which is one of the most highly recommended activities. We talked to the nice woman at the hotel's front desk who recommended a couple restaurants and a tour agency. We had lunch, booked a tour for the following morning to Jozani, and walked to the market, buying a few goods as we went along. That evening we had a very delicious seafood dinner at a restaurant near the hotel.
The next morning, we went on our tour of the forest, which was about a 40-minute drive from Stone Town, in the center of Zanzibar. The tour took us to 3 different areas. The first was a nature walk, where our guide pointed out some of the features of the forest, and described trees and wildlife. The forest floor has coral all over it, since Zanzibar was at one time completely underwater. This area of the forest also has fresh water just under the surface, so there were a number of fresh water crabs. Several lizards and and insects were pointed out to us. Overhead there was a family black monkeys fighting in the treetops. We also spotted an animal that is very rare to see (according to our guide) for its propensity to hide. This creature, called an elephant shrew, was about the size and shape of a rat, only it had a snout like an ant-eater. We continued onward to the next part of the forest, crossing the highway to a natural grove of almond trees. This area is inhabited by 1,000's of Red Colobus monkeys, who unlike the black monkeys, are not afraid to come near humans. At times the creatures played and ran within inches of us, as we stood in a small clearing. After observing and photographing the monkeys, we went to a third area, the mangrove forest. There is a salt water river running through this swamp, and the government has built a boardwalk that loops into part of the forest. This area has millions of small salt-water crabs that burrow into the swampy muck, in the shade of the mangrove trees.
We returned back to Stone Town, had lunch and went back to the market to buy spices, before we boarded the ferry back to Dar. I was a little sad to be leaving Zanzibar. Although it was very touristy, there was plenty to do and it felt nice to be a tourist again. We bought our bus tickets back to Nairobi from a company called Classic Coach, since we had been told Dar Express had already sold out. I realize now that this was a mistake. In the morning, we reported at the specified time of 6:30 am. The bus was scheduled to leave at 7:30, but didn't leave until 9:30. By the time we pulled out of the lot, we had already essentially been on the bus for 3 hours...It was going to be a long trip.
This time, on the way back, we decided to look for Mount Kilimanjaro, since we had completely neglected to spot it on the trip to Dar. As the sun had begun setting, we saw its snow-capped peak sticking out of the clouds in the distance. Marica was even able to get a picture through the windshield using my camera. We reached the Kenya border well after dark and finally pulled into Nairobi around 1 am, where we took a cab back home. The 16 hours spent on the bus had been exhausting and we were happy to be back.
Well, that's about it for now. We literally only have a month left here (we leave 4 weeks from tomorrow). Besides the trip to Mombasa, we're still going to attempt to head out west to Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda, although the assassination of a Member of Parliament is leading to continued violence in Western Kenya. We're also going to attempt to get some more humanitarian work done. Until next time...Kwaheri! Mark
Dec. 15, 2007
The following are the guts to a message that I was copied on containing a itinerary for Mark and the next young lady (Marica) that will be joining him in Kenya. She will be staying the duration of his remaining time there. She leaves the same day, March 4 as Mark.
Obviously this is only a initial itinerary, some of it is in coordination with Ann's presence in Kenya. The AIDS conference that is referenced actually occurs later in 2008, and takes place in Mexico City. Kigali, Kampala, and Bujumbura are in Rwanda, Uganda, and Burundi respectively. You can look at a map and see the locations of the countries. In Burundi, the country is currently governed by the Military. Jerome's Uncle is a General, and the plan currently is for Mark and Marica to stay with him while in Burundi. Jerome is the Refugee that Mark worked with here during his senior year at UNM. I forgot to ask about Rwanda; my understanding is that they would be staying with Jerome's brother. He has not mentioned any arrangements in Uganda.
We spoke with Mark today utilizing Sykpe for about 45 minutes, a lot of questions answered and now probably incorrectly presented.
Ann's extended family are located in Northern Kenya. They are a mix of Masai, and primarily Kikuru. Mark, while visiting Ann's family will have the opportunity to have a special soup. Now the gross part, the soup is made from Goat's head, that the hair has been removed, and then boiled. It is supposed to be very good. Some folks remove the brain and eye balls, and make the soup. I kid you not on this! There is also the opportunity to try the Milk and Cow blood that the Masai are famous for. I asked Mark if he had a shot glass with him. That way he could try it, and be limited in what amount he had to ingest.
There is also a refugee camp in Northern Kenya that contains refugees from primarily Rwanda, and many from Burundi. They plan on spending time there. With it's proximity to Sudan, I expected these people to be Sudanese. They are however in the Nairobi area.
The populations of Asians are growing in Kenya. The Chinese government is working on infrastructure, and is building a trans-continental highway amongst other major projects. Efforts by the West are quite absent. (Obviously this is due to the slow eroding of the Western influence and presence in some parts of the world.)
The primary religions are Christian, those being Baptist and Catholic. Mark said they are Hindus, as they have a temple or two in the Nairobi area. From my readings, these are probably Buddhists. And probably are an import from China or other Asians. Buddhism is one of the fasted growing practices around the world. Note I did not say religion, because it is not.
I also asked about clarification on female circumcision. This practice is outlawed in Kenya, but is not easily policed, so there are some pockets of it still occurring.
We also asked about the transportation used for his travel to Mombasa. There are three airports that service Nairobi. The one he flew out of is named Wilson, and the flights were with Kenyan Airways. Jomo Kenyatta is the major airport that the large airlines come in and out of. Delta just recently started flights into Kenya. Upgrades to the airport have attracted many European airlines. One of the runways was outfitted several years ago with IFR.
We are preparing a care package for Mark. One of the requested items was a flashlight. Nairobi suffers blackouts, quite frequently at times. We are looking into a rechargeable, smallish flashlight to avoid the cost of batteries on his end, and the need to get a supply of batteries to him initially. Primarily because of weight, we will send the smaller size. This care package will go down with Ann and Marica.
Any questions you would like me to ask Mark are of course welcome. We do not often get the opportunity to find out about most parts of the world at such and intimate level. The hour show on PBS, or National Geographic just don't really provide details.
One thing we had a chuckle about is that the mass emails Mark sends, and which Ann is copied on; she forwards to her family. This was unknown to Mark. As Donna found out that Ann was doing this when she had a conversation to coordinate some things with her this past weekend. They love Mark and he has given them a different view of Americans. We are very proud of him.
Mark, June and Stephanie attempted to prepare a Mexican food meal for their hosts. Mark made Guacamole. Obviously, he could not get the peppers we use. And (so he) utilized some from the area that are around an inch and a half long. However, they were extremely hot. June and Stephanie made Tacos, making the shells from scratch.
Well, I have exhausted what I wish to share. And there is not much I am not sharing. I could, in having taken notes and written this, misrepresented something(s), so . . (take it with a grain of salt!) All I have to say is; what an adventure!!! (Marks dad, Dale) 11/28/07 e-mail
Dec. 13, 2007
Sasaa,
We have taken somewhat of a break from humanitarian work for a while and have spent some time indulging in culture and spending time with the family. In this e-mail, I'd like to share some of the interesting things
we have done since Mombasa.
On Friday, November 30th, Ann's brother Kamau got married to Doris.
Well....they were actually already married and have two kids; but they
were tribally married. Here in Kenya, people have two weddings. The
first wedding is tribal and honors the traditions of each person's
tribe. For instance, if the tribe is Kikuyu, one of the traditions is to
have the bride and several other female friends/family members cover
themselves from head to toe. The groom must then pick which woman is his bride, paying a fine (and receiving years and years of torment) if he is wrong. These tribal weddings usually involve the exchange of dowries.
The second type of wedding (and the one that was held this day) was a
church wedding. It seemed like any other Catholic wedding, only I had no
idea what was being said, since the ceremony was in Swahili. One of the
interesting events following the ceremony was the arrival at the
reception. We had the privilege of spending a great deal of the day with
the wedding party, and thus got to bear witness to a tribal tradition.
As the train of cars pulled into the parking lot at the hotel, the
wedding party was greeted by 50 female Kikuyu family and friends who
sang and danced and ushered the whole party into the reception hall. It
was quite a sight to see. The remainder of the day was filled with food
and partying. At the buffet dinner, I got my first chance to eat grilled
and roasted goat meat (which is actually pretty good) and soup made from the goat's stomach and intestines (which is actually pretty terrible).
I'd like to insert an aside about eating goats. The highest honor a
person can receive is having a goat slaughtered for them (as will happen with Ann by her grandfather at the end of this month). Each person, depending on their societal status, has a designated part to eat. It varies from tribe to tribe a little, but from what I was told: the
uncircumcised boys and girls get the spine/back meat; the women get the kidneys, liver, intestines and other soft innards; the men get the legs, ribs and other prime parts. The head is taken and the hair is burned off, and it (eyes, tongue, brain and all) are boiled and made into a soup for the men. From what I am told, the head-soup is far better tasting than the gut-soup. We'll see in a couple weeks......
On the following Sunday, the household took a trip to the cultural
center Bomas of Kenya, which is on the outskirts of town near a national park. In the parking lot we saw very large, wild baboons setting off car alarms as they jumped on the hoods (which was hilarious, especially when June went chasing after them trying to snap a picture). On Saturdays and Sundays in the auditorium, Bomas has African drumming and dance from several tribes, which was incredible. Following that we walked around the grounds, where they have built mock tribal villages. We saw how each tribe traditionally builds their huts and lays out their plot of land.
The man has his own hut, as do the male children and each wife (yes,
polygamy is still in practice here, although not as common as it used to
be).
Following this fun afternoon, June and Stephanie graciously treated
everyone to dinner at a restaurant called Carnivore. Rated as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, it was an experience unto itself. For a set price, including appetizers, main courses and all-you-can-eat
desserts, this was a gluttonous experience. For any of you back home
that have been to Tucano's Brazilian grill, the layout of the meal was
similar. You start with appetizers and bread. Then the table is cleared,
a tray is brought out with a variety of salads and sauces for meats. On
top of the tray is a flag. As long as the flag is raised, men with
grilled meat on skewers will come around to your table, cutting off a
slice for whoever wants to try. The meats we consumed were: pork chops, pork sausage, beef, beef sausage, chicken, turkey, lamb chops and fillet, ostrich meatballs and fillet, and crocodile tail. The latter two
meats being by far the most exotic, were incredibly delicious. Crocodile tastes kind of like fish, and ostrich has a unique taste that can't really be compared to anything. With our tummy's stuffed to the brim with meat, we called it a night.
Following the weekend of fun, June did some work with the local Catholic center and reported back some very intriguing findings. This center has many programs, many of which are NOT funded by the Catholic church, but are instead funded by donations. There is a Voluntary Counseling and
Testing Center as well as a support group for HIV/AIDS. The sister in
charge of this program also visits homes of bed-ridden HIV/AIDS victims
to provide home support. There is an orphanage and a school. There is
also a refugee support group. A few of these programs were on hiatus for the holidays (the VCT center, home counseling and orphanage are not on hiatus). One afternoon, June was invited to see another special program which she said was horrifying. This program meets in the city every weekday and provides support to a group of street boys. One of the big problems with street boys in Nairobi is that almost every one of them sniffs glue-soaked rags. The boys in this program are fed a chunk of bread and given some juice (which provides the only food most of them get) and are taught to read and write. If any of them can stay off glue for 1 year, they can move into the orphanage, but many of them sniff glue right in front of the sister. I really want to spend some time
visiting each of these programs.
Last night, Stephanie and June left to return home. The night before, at their going-away party, they were able to convince the family to perform some traditional Kikuyu dances, in which we all partook. We also ate their favorite African foods and watched a slide show of our favorite pictures from the last 5 weeks (which I assembled). The house has been quiet since they left, though in 24 hours, Ann and Marica will arrive.
That's all for now. I hope everything is well, and I wish you all a
festive and happy holiday season.
Feb. 21, 2007
Krystle and I are continuing with our ministry work which is all basically
the same as I’ve been telling you so I don’t want to bore you with the same
stories. But I do ask you to pray for us as we are trying to "wrap" things
up by the beginning of March so we can have the last 2 weeks to see people
and say our good-byes. CCP has released us – we are done with our work
their. We continue to stay busy with the profiles for TULIP and I’ll be
teaching a class on "managing money" to the youth at Lifespring in to the
2nd week of March (just on Thursday’s for 2 hours).
I must be a target for pick-pocketer's. Not once, not twice, BUT 3 times
they attempted to steal from me and only the first time were they
successful. I think I shared with you the first two…the first one when they
stole my phone, the second was in Mombasa when they tried to steal my
camera. This third time was in a matatu (where I was a target before I even
got in). It went something like this: 1 guy was sitting behind me, then a
guy on my left and one on my right – they arranged it that way making me
move in the middle so at that time I said, "you better not be trying to pick
pocket me!" The two on the side had "briefcases" that are empty that they
probably use to store their stolen goods and the one behind me continued to
pull at my seatbelt trying to distract me. I was concerned about the
valuables in my pockets so kept them covered where as my backpack on my lap
just had some paper work and hand sanitizer. I kept getting my seat belt
tugged so I turned around, shoved the guy and yelled, "this is my seat
belt…get off!" The very next second the guy next to me had his "briefcase"
over my bag so then I began to fight him off by shoving him and his
briefcase now to discover my backpack just magically opened on its own. I
gave this guy a piece of my mind as well almost crying when I was done
yelling! This all happened in less than 90 seconds. As the 3 thieves were
alighting I yelled, "Nice try!"
There is an 8 year old racist Indian girl in our estate. Some time early
last week I was walking in to the front gate as she approached me and said,
"My friend told me to tell you that mzungus smell like mafi." So I asked
her what that was and she quietly whispered, "Mzungu smell like poo-poo." I
was so shocked and kind of mad so I just replied, "Tell your friend to come
tell me himself." One or two days later the girl approached Krystle saying
the same thing, and the day after that approached another mzungu - Canadian
Christie living with us. Once we all discovered she had been saying the
same thing to us I told the girls we should poop in a bag and give it to
the girl. That would show her! We didn’t do it.
Friday Krystle and I were craving a hot fudge sundae. So we went to
Nakumatt where they have an upstairs restaurant and cyber. First we got our
ice-cream and then checked our email. Then we discovered "Mexican" food on
the menu and ordered a beef chimichanga. It tasted like mongollian beef. I
have stocked up the carbs here staying away from the meat as much as
possible. At home I don’t eat much meat anyway, but when I get home, Shad
please cook me a steak and when I eat that one, please bring me another one!
Have I mentioned before how people generally arrive late? On my way to
Lifespring I have to take 2 matatus. On Thursday to my first connection it
took about an hour because of a jam (later I heard they had some roads
closed due to a shooting some where) and it should have taken me no more
than 5 minutes. Then I crossed the road to get my next mat and traffic
wasn’t even moving. So what did I do? I decided to go in to Nakumatt, eat
breakfast (the place where we got our Mexican Chinese food). By the time I
came out about 40 minutes later the jam had gone. I got to Lifespring about
2 ½ hours late. So if I come home and am SLOW or late, please be patient
with me.
I keep mentioning how fast the time is going by but it’s so true. Imagine,
I used to say "6 months is too long" and now I’m saying it is not enough.
Please continue to pray as time is ending and am feeling many things. May
God bless you and all you are doing! I can now count to 20 in Swahili. I
won’t count for you but don’t have any thing else good in Swahili to share
with you – "uma shiba?" Are you full? See you’s…
|