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St. Louis Missouri Area Blog Talk

Marks ExcellentAfricanAdventure_Dad&MarksConversation

Dec. 15, 2007
Categorized in: REFLECTIONS ON AFRICA
Tagged with: africa, aids, mombasa, nairobi
The following are the guts to a message that I was copied on containing a itinerary for Mark and the next young lady (Marica) that will be joining him in Kenya. She will be staying the duration of his remaining time there. She leaves the same day, March 4 as Mark.

Obviously this is only a initial itinerary, some of it is in coordination with Ann's presence in Kenya. The AIDS conference that is referenced actually occurs later in 2008, and takes place in Mexico City. Kigali, Kampala, and Bujumbura are in Rwanda, Uganda, and Burundi respectively. You can look at a map and see the locations of the countries. In Burundi, the country is currently governed by the Military. Jerome's Uncle is a General, and the plan currently is for Mark and Marica to stay with him while in Burundi. Jerome is the Refugee that Mark worked with here during his senior year at UNM. I forgot to ask about Rwanda; my understanding is that they would be staying with Jerome's brother. He has not mentioned any arrangements in Uganda.

We spoke with Mark today utilizing Sykpe for about 45 minutes, a lot of questions answered and now probably incorrectly presented.
Ann's extended family are located in Northern Kenya. They are a mix of Masai, and primarily Kikuru. Mark, while visiting Ann's family will have the opportunity to have a special soup. Now the gross part, the soup is made from Goat's head, that the hair has been removed, and then boiled. It is supposed to be very good. Some folks remove the brain and eye balls, and make the soup. I kid you not on this! There is also the opportunity to try the Milk and Cow blood that the Masai are famous for. I asked Mark if he had a shot glass with him. That way he could try it, and be limited in what amount he had to ingest.

There is also a refugee camp in Northern Kenya that contains refugees from primarily Rwanda, and many from Burundi. They plan on spending time there. With it's proximity to Sudan, I expected these people to be Sudanese. They are however in the Nairobi area.

The populations of Asians are growing in Kenya. The Chinese government is working on infrastructure, and is building a trans-continental highway amongst other major projects. Efforts by the West are quite absent. (Obviously this is due to the slow eroding of the Western influence and presence in some parts of the world.)

The primary religions are Christian, those being Baptist and Catholic. Mark said they are Hindus, as they have a temple or two in the Nairobi area. From my readings, these are probably Buddhists. And probably are an import from China or other Asians. Buddhism is one of the fasted growing practices around the world. Note I did not say religion, because it is not.

I also asked about clarification on female circumcision. This practice is outlawed in Kenya, but is not easily policed, so there are some pockets of it still occurring.

We also asked about the transportation used for his travel to Mombasa. There are three airports that service Nairobi. The one he flew out of is named Wilson, and the flights were with Kenyan Airways. Jomo Kenyatta is the major airport that the large airlines come in and out of. Delta just recently started flights into Kenya. Upgrades to the airport have attracted many European airlines. One of the runways was outfitted several years ago with IFR.

We are preparing a care package for Mark. One of the requested items was a flashlight. Nairobi suffers blackouts, quite frequently at times. We are looking into a rechargeable, smallish flashlight to avoid the cost of batteries on his end, and the need to get a supply of batteries to him initially. Primarily because of weight, we will send the smaller size. This care package will go down with Ann and Marica.

Any questions you would like me to ask Mark are of course welcome. We do not often get the opportunity to find out about most parts of the world at such and intimate level. The hour show on PBS, or National Geographic just don't really provide details.

One thing we had a chuckle about is that the mass emails Mark sends, and which Ann is copied on; she forwards to her family. This was unknown to Mark. As Donna found out that Ann was doing this when she had a conversation to coordinate some things with her this past weekend. They love Mark and he has given them a different view of Americans. We are very proud of him.

Mark, June and Stephanie attempted to prepare a Mexican food meal for their hosts. Mark made Guacamole. Obviously, he could not get the peppers we use. And (so he) utilized some from the area that are around an inch and a half long. However, they were extremely hot. June and Stephanie made Tacos, making the shells from scratch.

Well, I have exhausted what I wish to share. And there is not much I am not sharing. I could, in having taken notes and written this, misrepresented something(s), so . . (take it with a grain of salt!) All I have to say is; what an adventure!!! (Marks dad, Dale) 11/28/07 e-mail

Marks ExcellentAdventure_Africa4

Dec. 13, 2007
Categorized in: REFLECTIONS ON AFRICA
Tagged with: africa, aids, mombasa, nairobi
Sasaa,
 
We have taken somewhat of a break from humanitarian work for a while and have spent some time indulging in culture and spending time with the family. In this e-mail, I'd like to share some of the interesting things
we have done since Mombasa.
 
On Friday, November 30th, Ann's brother Kamau got married to Doris.
Well....they were actually already married and have two kids; but they
were tribally married. Here in Kenya, people have two weddings. The
first wedding is tribal and honors the traditions of each person's
tribe. For instance, if the tribe is Kikuyu, one of the traditions is to
have the bride and several other female friends/family members cover
themselves from head to toe. The groom must then pick which woman is his bride, paying a fine (and receiving years and years of torment) if he is wrong. These tribal weddings usually involve the exchange of dowries.
 
The second type of wedding (and the one that was held this day) was a
church wedding. It seemed like any other Catholic wedding, only I had no
idea what was being said, since the ceremony was in Swahili. One of the
interesting events following the ceremony was the arrival at the
reception. We had the privilege of spending a great deal of the day with
the wedding party, and thus got to bear witness to a tribal tradition.
As the train of cars pulled into the parking lot at the hotel, the
wedding party was greeted by 50 female Kikuyu family and friends who
sang and danced and ushered the whole party into the reception hall. It
was quite a sight to see. The remainder of the day was filled with food
and partying. At the buffet dinner, I got my first chance to eat grilled
and roasted goat meat (which is actually pretty good) and soup made from the goat's stomach and intestines (which is actually pretty terrible).
 
I'd like to insert an aside about eating goats. The highest honor a
person can receive is having a goat slaughtered for them (as will happen with Ann by her grandfather at the end of this month). Each person, depending on their societal status, has a designated part to eat. It varies from tribe to tribe a little, but from what I was told: the
uncircumcised boys and girls get the spine/back meat; the women get the kidneys, liver, intestines and other soft innards; the men get the legs, ribs and other prime parts. The head is taken and the hair is burned off, and it (eyes, tongue, brain and all) are boiled and made into a soup for the men. From what I am told, the head-soup is far better tasting than the gut-soup. We'll see in a couple weeks......
 
On the following Sunday, the household took a trip to the cultural
center Bomas of Kenya, which is on the outskirts of town near a national park. In the parking lot we saw very large, wild baboons setting off car alarms as they jumped on the hoods (which was hilarious, especially when June went chasing after them trying to snap a picture). On Saturdays and Sundays in the auditorium, Bomas has African drumming and dance from several tribes, which was incredible. Following that we walked around the grounds, where they have built mock tribal villages. We saw how each tribe traditionally builds their huts and lays out their plot of land.
The man has his own hut, as do the male children and each wife (yes,
polygamy is still in practice here, although not as common as it used to
be).
 
Following this fun afternoon, June and Stephanie graciously treated
everyone to dinner at a restaurant called Carnivore. Rated as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, it was an experience unto itself. For a set price, including appetizers, main courses and all-you-can-eat
desserts, this was a gluttonous experience. For any of you back home
that have been to Tucano's Brazilian grill, the layout of the meal was
similar. You start with appetizers and bread. Then the table is cleared,
a tray is brought out with a variety of salads and sauces for meats. On
top of the tray is a flag. As long as the flag is raised, men with
grilled meat on skewers will come around to your table, cutting off a
slice for whoever wants to try. The meats we consumed were: pork chops, pork sausage, beef, beef sausage, chicken, turkey, lamb chops and fillet, ostrich meatballs and fillet, and crocodile tail. The latter two
meats being by far the most exotic, were incredibly delicious. Crocodile tastes kind of like fish, and ostrich has a unique taste that can't really be compared to anything. With our tummy's stuffed to the brim with meat, we called it a night.
 
Following the weekend of fun, June did some work with the local Catholic center and reported back some very intriguing findings. This center has many programs, many of which are NOT funded by the Catholic church, but are instead funded by donations. There is a Voluntary Counseling and
Testing Center as well as a support group for HIV/AIDS. The sister in
charge of this program also visits homes of bed-ridden HIV/AIDS victims
to provide home support. There is an orphanage and a school. There is
also a refugee support group. A few of these programs were on hiatus for the holidays (the VCT center, home counseling and orphanage are not on hiatus). One afternoon, June was invited to see another special program which she said was horrifying. This program meets in the city every weekday and provides support to a group of street boys. One of the big problems with street boys in Nairobi is that almost every one of them sniffs glue-soaked rags. The boys in this program are fed a chunk of bread and given some juice (which provides the only food most of them get) and are taught to read and write. If any of them can stay off glue for 1 year, they can move into the orphanage, but many of them sniff glue right in front of the sister. I really want to spend some time
visiting each of these programs.
 
Last night, Stephanie and June left to return home. The night before, at their going-away party, they were able to convince the family to perform some traditional Kikuyu dances, in which we all partook. We also ate their favorite African foods and watched a slide show of our favorite pictures from the last 5 weeks (which I assembled). The house has been quiet since they left, though in 24 hours, Ann and Marica will arrive.
 
That's all for now. I hope everything is well, and I wish you all a
festive and happy holiday season.