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January 2008

Jan. 22, 2008 - ChesterfieldSoundbarrier

Looks like the needed Clarkson Soundbarrier on Clarkson Road has hit a snag. This is the 2nd time that the Missouri Traffic and Highway Commission has rejected the bids. MODot has refined the project and resubbmited only to meet rejection,as bids are considered to be too high to get this project started. A good question might be,"Won't the delays end up costing more?" More traffic, more noise!
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Jan. 3, 2008 - MoBot_HolidayEvent

Happy New Year to all of you! May you have a Blessed Year!

I'm looking forward to having a wonderful year, with time for work and enjoying the time with family and friends. This is a great time for reflection and also for planning. If your year turned out like mine, many of my plans, turned on a dime and I was left to realize, you need to be willing to change the plan!

Sunday, my husband and I went to one of my favorite city places, Missouri Botanical Garden again. They had a special event called the Gardenland Express and the Wilderness Escape.
2007_Xmas MoBot

It featured Yellowstone National Park and scenes of the Wilderness Lodge. This was a treat for young and old! Lot's trains and a wonderful rendition of the history of Yellowstone to boot. They always seem to top the last show and of course, folks come from all around to view it. I loved the "working" geyser like Old Faithful!

You'll also enjoy seeing the wreath show; you could bid on the wreaths (min. of $100.) and take one of them home with you.

We also toured the Shaw Country Home and I hope you'll stop in to see this too! They do give tours and I'd advise you to take it as you'll get more history and enjoyment with a delightful tour guide to explain the times to you. Please call to be sure they are open or check on-line for upcoming events. No matter what season it is, it's a great place to go to lift your spirits and take photos!

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Jan. 3, 2008 - MarksExcellentAfricanAdventure5A

(Please continue to pray for Mark's safety while in these unsetteling times in Africa. We feel he may not be fully aware of the situation as news media is not being allowed access to the area local news, to our knowledge. Thanks! Judy)
Hey everybody!

So besides the election and the consequential uproar, I've done some really fun and exciting things. For starters, a few days after Ann and Marica arrived, on December 15th, the Carnivore restaurant I mentioned in my last update) held Kikuyu night, featuring food, alcohol and music from the tribe. Since the family was Kikuyu, we hired a matatu for the night and all headed out for great fun. In addition to trying the tribes fermented honey drink (which is nothing like mead), I learned some tribal dances. We returned home around 4am. The following day, a 30-second video clip featuring Ann, Marica and I dancing ended up airing every hour on K24, Kenya's 24-hour news channel (like CNN). Hooray for 15 minutes of fame! If I can get a copy of the video from the station, I'll put it up on YouTube.

On Tuesday the 18th, I returned to Amani Children's home, this time with Ann and Marica. This trip was not nearly as traumatizing as the first visit. I even took time to make friends with Faith, the sweet, disabled little girl whose story I mentioned in Update 2.

The following Thursday we took a YWIDC trip to a small town called Isesini, which is in the Machakos district. A New Mexican named Dr. Angelo Tomedi, of the NGO Global Health Partnerships has supported a health center in this region. The health center is funded in part by a large group of women who weave baskets, handbags and place-mats and sell them at fair-trade prices. Our job was to evaluate how everything at the center was going and report back. Although the center is facing many complicated issues, the trip was fun and informative. It was fascinating to spend 2 days living in such an impoverished area, witnessing their way of life. This region of Kenya is semi-arid (just like most of New Mexico) and thus experiences a lot of drought and the resulting hardships.

On December 24th, we all traveled to Narok, for the holiday. Anns brother-in-law Kosen (who is Masai) is from this area. We were going to be staying at his family's shamba (farm-land) nestled up in a hilly area outside of the town of Narok. Kosen's father owns a great expanse of land. In addition to his large house and cattle-sheds, he has fields=of wheat and corn and a large fruit and vegetable garden. Out beyond these fields, there is a small forest with a seasonal river which runs through it. Beyond the forest there is a field of small rolling hills. All this land fell within the property lines. It was an unimaginably beautiful place. The forest was even inhabited by monkeys and baboons. On Christmas morning, I headed out to the forest with Ben to go watch monkeys in the trees. They swayed too far away to get pictures, but it was still exciting. Besides, what Christmas would be complete without monkeys? We did not, unfortunately, see any baboons.

Christmas in Kenya is really different from the Western world. They don't exchange gifts and the gathering of family is contingent upon on thing - animal slaughter! No roasted/grilled animal meat? No family get together...Usually a goat is slaughtered for special occasions, but the Masai require that a sheep is killed when in-laws visit.
The Masai also have special requirements for killing the animal. Two types of trees must be present and the animal must lay upon a certain type of leaves when it is killed, skinned and gutted. Preparation was made and a sheep was killed. The testicles were taken out and put into a tree near the fire, to be roasted later and given to the uncircumcised boys. As the carcass was being gutted, the kidneys were taken out and eaten raw. I was given a slice of raw kidney and ate it. Raw kidney amazingly tastes like chicken, and it was still warm from the body heat. As parts were removed from the sheep, they were either thrown on the grill or thrown to the dogs (for instance, I witnessed one dog enjoying a full sheep bladder). Throughout the day I was handed pieces of cooked meat to try - ribs, legs, esophagus (which is really crispy and not flavorful). The head was even roasted to be made into a soup (which was made the day after we left, so I had no chance to sample it).

As Christmas wore on, a second sheep was slaughtered, and there was so much roasted meat that it seemed overwhelming. In the evening, everyone gathered in the living room and we watched a movie called "Crazy Safari." The 1970's kung-fu-action-comedy is about an ancient Chinese vampire-mummy that gets lost by his modern ancestors in tribal Africa. Antics ensue. (Could I make something like this up?) I want to start a new Christmas tradition back home, where every year we watch "Crazy Safari!"

So as you can see, the holiday was drastically different, but was still fun. The 26th of December was Boxing Day. We ate a big lunch of more roasted meat and a couple chickens were slaughtered and given to Ann and her brother Kamau as gifts. After that, we returned home in a rainstorm, spotting a herd of giraffe along the muddy highway. The 27th was election day and by now, you all have hopefully read about how that turned out.

Our plan for New Year's was to visit Ann's grandfather and at a slaughtered goat, but unfortunately, due to election violence, we were forced to stay home. All of Ann's siblings gathered here, although Ann was stuck at her aunt's house outside of Nairobi. We had a New Years celebration, with music and impromptu noise makers (pots and spoons), and a punk-rock version of "Auld Lang Syne". I DJ'd all night from my MP3 player and we danced and drank beer and wine. New Year's was a blast, but not quite the same as it is back home.

So that brings us to the here and now. Marica and I have been planning a trip out to Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi to begin this weekend, but currently no bus lines are running because of violence in rural areas of Kenya We might have to re-work our schedule and go at a later time, but we're still playing it by ear.

I hope everyone had a fun and safe Holiday Season!

- Mark
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Jan. 1, 2008 - Marks ExcellentAdventure_Africa5_Election2007

RE: Election and Aftermath

Faithful readers,

I have been intending to send a mass update for a while. I have done many interesting things since my last entry. I still intend to write the e-mail, but first I have to cover a much more important topic: the state of Kenya and my safety. Please be sure to pass this on, as I feel people back home may be worried...

When I first arrived in Kenya, posters heralding the election hung on every street corner. Billboards showing presidential candidates lined all major road-ways. On my first visit to the local supermarket chain, I witnessed a Public Service Announcement on television that denounced election violence. I knew nothing about the candidates or the upcoming election at this point, so I began asking questions. Who are these candidates? What do they stand for? Is election violence probable? There were 2 major presidential candidates in this election (and 7 other third-party candidates who didn't garner much attention).

Meanwhile, Kenya had 142 registered political parties being represented in the election (mostly for positions of Members of Parliament [MP's] or counselors). Amazingly, most of the political parties were young, less than 5 years old. Even the parties of the 2 prime candidates were less than a year in the making. The differences between these parties were minor. The formation of parties usually bordered on the refusal of one candidate to work with another.

The first major candidate in this election was the incumbent, Mwai Kibaki, running on the ballot of PNU (Party of National Unity). The octogenarian is no stranger to politics, having been an avid supporter in the fight for independence in the 1960's and an economist by education. During the 1980's and 1990's, he was considered a valuable MP and spent many of those years as appointed Minister of Finance. He was hardly contested when he ran for his first-term as president in 2002. During his 5-year term, the economy had grown by 7%, infrastructure had blossomed, and international relations had improved. Kenya was looking great. Despite all of the development, Kibaki's major opponents complained that he had not done enough. There's one other important thing to know about Kibaki: his tribal affiliation is Kikuyu.

The other major candidate was a bit more controversial. A mechanical engineer by trade, Raila Odinga was backed by the party ODM (the Orange Democratic Movement). Odinga's father was the first vice president of Kenya in the 1960's. In 1982, Raila led an attempted coup against the president at the time, Moi, and as a result spent seven years in prison (1983-1990). He fled to Norway for a year and stepped into politics upon his return. His first unsuccessful bid for the presidency in 1997, followed by another in 2002. Despite this, he has remained a deeply supported MP, overseeing a region of Nairobi that includes the Kibera slum. Raila Odinga's tribal affiliation is Luo.

Why, might you ask, is tribal affiliation important? Kenya has 42 tribes, the largest of which is the Kikuyu, who make up a 5th of the population. During British Imperialism, the Kikuyu were favored by the Brits because of their keen business sense. The Kikuyu have close ties with many tribes, but also garnered many enemies because of their control of a large majority of government, industry and commerce within Kenya. No tribe overtly dislikes Kikuyu more than the Luo, however.

The Luo, incidentally, make up large section of the lower-class, including the population of many slums. They blame the Kikuyu for many of their economic hardships. I have one more aside on the relationships of the tribes. Kenya has come a long way from tribalism, but not far enough. Occasionally, past discrepancies or minor tribal differences rear their ugly heads and end up profoundly affecting tribal relations. For instance (and this is important), the Luo do not circumcise their boys, whereas virtually every other tribe does as a mark of manhood. The Kikuyu are not necessarily opposed to having a leader from another tribe, as long as a boy (read as: the uncircumcised Raila Odinga) does not try to lead men.

Ok, so let's flash forward to the present. As the election neared, mud-slinging was inevitable. Things began to look ugly, so to say, and it was guaranteed to be a close race between Kibaki and Odinga. There was even a notable bout of violence in mid-November when several women campaigning for Kibaki/PNU in Kibera were severely beaten by some of Odinga's fanatical followers. Meanwhile, all candidates for all government positions preached non-violence and a free and fair election. Last Thursday marked election day.

Supposedly, over 9 million voters turned out, out of the 14 million registered. When polls closed, the votes began being counted. By Sunday, the results would be announced and the president would immediately be sworn into office. Friday went on without incident, but on Saturday violent skirmishes began. In a couple areas of the country, including Nairobi, several groups of Odinga supporters began trying to invade ballot-counting locations, in an uproar that the counts were not coming in fast enough. At this juncture, Odinga has taken an early lead. Then on Saturday came an announcement of several contingencies and their votes that brought forth controversy. A large Rift Valley contingency, for instance, announced 99% voter turnout with Kibaki garnering 0 votes. It was clear that Odinga and his party had done some rigging.

By Saturday night, all but 15 contingencies had been reported. These 15 were all located in the Central province, the most highly populated areas of Kenya, and predominant Kibaki supporters. The race was close, with Kibaki only lagging by a few hundred-thousand votes.

Now this next part is speculation, and will never be admitted to, but it is commonly thought that by Sunday morning, Kibaki had done some counter-rigging. So much for free and fair elections.

Also by Sunday, e-mails and text messages were being circulated that Kibaki would be declared winner. When the official announcement came around 6 pm Sunday evening, Kibaki was declared the winner by a margin of 200,000 votes. Within 30 minutes, he was sworn into office at the state house. His first act was to declare the 31st as a national holiday, with work to resume on January 2nd.

Violence continued yesterday, as residents of Kibera slum and other areas of Kenya had small uprisings that were quickly squelched by police and military. A rally had been called for in Nairobi's Uhuru park, where Odinga would be declared the "people's president" (an act of treason). Military surrounded the park and closed it to the public before a rally could take place. Meanwhile, the government banned live news broadcasts for a good part of the day, to help prevent the spread of violence.

So that brings us to now. Odinga has scheduled a "peaceful" and "non-controversial" gathering in Uhuru park set for Thursday afternoon. Violence is dying down for now and things aren't looking too bad.

So the question arises: am I in danger? The answer is no. To put things in perspective, let me state my position in American terms. When the LA riots broke out in the early 1990's, was it safe to go to California? Yes. Was it safe to go to LA? Yes. Did you dare set foot in South Central LA? Hell no. So right now, travel is limited by violent areas, but I am still in a safe place, surrounded by the whole family (including Ann's siblings who live in other parts of Nairobi). We will stay in the neighborhood until everything dies out and returns to normal. I assure all of you that mine and Marica's safety are of the utmost importance to the family and many of our neighbors. If I'm in any danger, I will not hesitate to take a trip to the US Embassy and get out of here.

I received a question from my dad this morning, via text message, concerning a food shortage. Apparently the news has been showing a clip from Eldoret of Kenyans waiting in long lines to get food. So is there a food shortage? In some parts of the country, yes. Why? Well the country has been at a dead-standstill for the last week and a half. Since before Christmas, virtually every business (including those that deliver goods to outlying areas of Kenya) have been closed. This is by no means a 24-hour 365-days a year type of country, which is very unlike what we're used to. When there are a series of public holiday (December 20 and 21st, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, Election Day, December 28th, the recently declared December 31st, and last but not least, New Year's Day) , grocery stores close, government offices close, trucking businesses close. The only things really open are hotels, police/fire stations and hospitals. Even if I wanted to go to town, I couldn't because there are no matatus running and rental car businesses are closed. My only option would be to borrow the neighbor's car. So hopefully I have covered everything you may have seen or heard on the news.

Again, I assure you I'm safe. My trip to Kenya is not a suicide mission, so I'll leave if I need to, but for now there is no reason to be alarmed. I'll try to write a less-serious mass e-mail update in the next few days and as always, if you have any unanswered questions, please pass them my way and I'll try to respond.

My internet access has been limited (since more people are using their cellphones and usually the system is too busy). Its been taking, on average, about 2 hours of non-stop attempts just to get an e-mail sent (not to mention how long it takes to download my incoming e-mail), so if you don't hear from me right away, then don't worry. If all else fails, I'll go to a cyber cafe when they open again. Until next time, Mark

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